Refresh of NorCalF’s Goals
Gregg Fuhriman
September, 2017
I thought it would be useful to post the roots of NorCalF's history as we 
celebrate the 20th anniversary of NorCalF's founding. But more 
importantly, after looking through the photos that were shared of this latest 
BarnBQ layout, I'd like to remind the group of NorCalF's big picture modeling 
philosophy and goals.
Free-mo in northern California originated in 1997 when Jim [Lackner], Harry 
[Wong], Doug [Fuhriman], and myself decided we wanted a way to operate our 
super-detailed, weathered, prototypically-accurate locos and cars that were 
sitting on shelves or stored in boxes. Gary [Green] soon joined, forming the 
core foundational group whose original tongue-in-cheek name was "Bay Area 
Regional Free-mo". We soon linked up with Chris [Palomarez] from SLO and some of 
his colleagues from LA, who briefly assumed the name "Southern California Area 
Regional Free-mo".  So when we did our first joint test setup in a San 
Mateo motel meeting room in 1999, we were literally "SCARF and BARF". Ha Ha.  
We decided a more serious name was needed for our first big public event, a 
joint setup with the SLO modular club at the 2000 National Train Show in San 
Jose. And NorCalF was born.
The NorCalF "founding five" set the goal to build modules with track and scenery 
that were just as prototypically realistic as the train equipment we had been 
building, sort of an "RPM for scenery". In fact, there were several links formed 
between the RPM crowd and Free-mo, as our modeling philosophies and goals were 
basically identical - build models that were as close to the real thing as 
possible.
I want to refresh these goals now, so that NorCalF setups will soon once again 
present the very best, most prototypically accurate modular model railroading on 
the continent. Doesn't that sound like a great thing to be part of?
For train equipment, that means prototypically correct detailing, painting, and 
weathering. Real trains are almost always dirty, to one degree or another. 
You very rarely see factory-floor shiny locos and cars in the real world.  
So with this in mind, I strongly encourage everyone in NorCalF and Free-mo to 
pursue the "RPM mindset" and resist the "easy" path of pulling a new loco out 
of its box and dropping it on the Free-mo layout. Take the time and put in the 
effort to research your chosen prototype, add the correct details, tweak the 
factory paint, and *weather* those locos and cars. Or at the very least, hit 
them with some Dullcote (though that is a weak substitute for actual 
weathering).
Perhaps there is some fear involved in potentially "wrecking" that expensive 
loco, and so it remains all shiny and toy-like forever? There's an easy way to 
overcome that fear: practice on low-cost, "disposable" models to build up your 
detailing and weathering skills until you have the confidence you won't "wreck" 
those models you really value. Go on eBay, etc. and pick up some cheap, old 
models to practice on. At worst, you'll ruin some $5 cars. At best, you'll be 
able to turn a profit by re-selling the weathered cars (it's surprising what 
weathered equipment can go for on eBay etc.).
And while weathering those cheap cars, take on the mindset that it's the most 
valuable car in the world to you, so you'll try to do the very best job 
possible. Otherwise, if you see the car for what it is (a cheap piece of 
disposable junk), your efforts will be for naught. At least half of good 
weathering is the mindset of the artist.
I've been putting this into practice myself. I'm slowly working my way through 
my DCC loco fleet and upgrading the lights, details, and paint, then weathering 
them using a mix of chalks and airbrushing. I will no longer run out-of-the-box 
locos at Free-mo setups (I hope to do the same with cars, eventually - now when 
I prep a new car for operations, I weather it before putting it in my Free-mo 
transport boxes). I use prototype photos found on the internet, or from my own 
collection. I simply *look* at what's in the photos, and then try to replicate 
it. I go piece by piece - what do the trucks *look* like? OK, replicate that. 
What do the pilots *look* like? OK, replicate that. What does the roof *look* 
like? OK, replicate that.  Pretty soon, the entire model is weathered just 
like its prototype.
The same process can be used when designing, building, and scenicking Free-mo 
modules. Choose a prototype, study photos of it, then break it down into small 
"pieces" and replicate what you see. If uncertain what scenic materials and 
techniques to use, just practice on disposable blocks of foam or scrap pieces of 
plywood until your methods and skills can produce the look you want. Don't be 
afraid to use non-commercial materials. You'll be pleasantly surprised what can 
be done by *not* opening a box! This is how I did my Glen Frazer module. I 
failed at a lot of side experiments before hitting on the formula that produced 
the look I wanted.
As illustration and inspiration, here are some pics of a few locos I upgraded in 
recent years following this method, staged on a section of Glen Frazer module. 
These are factory-painted models to which I added or corrected a few details, 
added small decals and brushwork to correct the paint, and then weathered:
 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/124853761@N08/albums/72157665530219470
https://www.flickr.com/photos/124853761@N08/albums/72157669801800976 
Thanks for reading.
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